| I had to make all new cylinder baffles. The original ones were bent and cracked beyond repair. All baffle parts were powder coated prior to assembly.
Notice the misfit between the baffles |
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| it's gone in this photo. I trim the baffles to be perfectly in line |  |
| Here is the right side; finished and ready to fit the baffle seals. |  |
| Notice the pop-rivet. This keeps the baffles aligned. |  |
| Then I spread the baffles (notice the spacing between them) and put a piece of masking tape approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch down front to rear. |  |
| Then I cement the baffle seal down with TRV 732 and let it set 24 hours. The baffle seal and the mating surface on the baffle must be thoroughly cleaned with DX330 wax and grease remover or the seal won't stick. |  |
| Trial fit. I notch the seal where the baffles bend. Notice how the baffle seal has a natural bend to it. This relieves a great deal of the chaffing against the upper cowling and yet provides an excellet seal to the upper cowling. |  |
| Another view if the seal. The right side of the engine looks the same. The seal has a natural bend to it using this approach. When you close the cowling, you know it'll be in place. The seal was riveted on with broad head pop-rivets during final assembly. |  |
| Then I start on the front baffle. Lotsa work getting to this point. What you don't see, and which I didn't take pictures of, are the many hours spent using a chemical stripper to get all of the old paint off and then bead blasting them and then having all of these parts powder coated. |  |
| The previous photo shows the seal around the muffler inlet. I replaced it becasue it was very dry and brittle. This is the back side. The baffle seal on either side of the muffler opening protects the baffle from chafing on the muffler. |  |
| Another shot of the front. I had to replace the entire right (as you're looking at it) side of the front baffle. It had been worn through a number of times and patched. It was way beyond repair. |  |
| With the baffle seal installed, prior to to cutting the slits in it for fitting against the nose bowl. Use broad head pop-rivets. Rivet from the seal side and you won't have to f*ck with little washers to hold the seal in place. |  |
| The center section. I overlap a good 2 inches in the corners. |  |
| Right side showing the initial installation |  |
| Here is the nose bowl. I set the front baffle in it, completely assembled (including the baffle seal), to see how it'll all fit together. |  |
| If you look closely, you can see the seal as it goes behind the landing light. The seal must be shortened in this area or it'll buch up when installed. |  |
| Another shot of this area |  |
| This is the toughest part to get a good seal. The original designers of the baffle system should have spent more time laying out the shape here to simplify the sealing. A lot of leaks can occur here. Lots of corners to seal. |  |
| Another closeup of the other side. |  |
| Here is the baffle that goes around the bottom of the cylinders. I put a pop-rivet where the safety wire will go and drive out the pop-rivet mandrel. This leaves a very strong hole which will not tear through like the original hole and fine wire sping did. |  |
| Another shot of the reinforced holes. |  |
| This center baffle is on both sides. Notice where it has worn through. I use RTV 732 wherever I've noticed any wear. let it set for 24 hrs before handing the part. I also reinforce these holes. |  |
| Here the baffles are tied together with 0.032 safety wire. This is the #4 cylinder. This is how the factory set it up. It's smaller around the cylinder barrel than the others. It's possible the opening is too small. This is definitely are area for research.
The SCAT tubing from the front baffle partially blocked the outlet for #4 cyl head. I relocated the tubing. |
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| This is the # 3 cylinder. The safety wire is kinked to tighten it and to provide some spring constant where practical.. |
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| Another shot of #4 where the air exits from the cylinder head. |
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| Here is #2 cylinder. |
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| Here is the seal on the rear baffle to the engine. The area behind the case bolt is usually open. There is a lot of custom fitting here since the facotry never sealed this very well. |
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| Here is the other side. Again, the factory never paid any attention to the big gaping hole in this corner. Two different seals were used to fill this area. it's difficult to see in this picture. |
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| Another view of the left rear seal. This was prior to notching for the cowling. that part was left until everything was assembled so that the notch would be in the right spot. |  |
| Left side. Finished. |  |
| Another shot of the seal at the rear of the engine. |  |
| Right side sealing. The corner (in the under the cowling hinge) is difficult to get right. I overlap from both directions. If you look closely, you'll see where the seal from the left side of the engine tucks under the seal from the right side. They both fit snugly toger with the cowling closed. |  |
| Right side cylinder baffle seal. The baffling is finished. I tried taking some pics into the air inlet with the cowling closed but I couldn't get enough light in there to make the pictures come out right. |  |
| Here is the splitter I made for my Citabria between the #4 cylinder and the oil cooler. The combination of this and a Stewart-Warner 8406R oil cooler dropped the oil temp by 15 degrees F. |
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| I put his here because I didn't know where else to put it.
The only really poor fitting location on the PowerFlow exhaust system is where it interferes with the flange for the SCAT tubing to the carb heat. |
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